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1/8 scale Axial propeller for Hasegawa Dr.1

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  • #61
    Originally posted by slhetal View Post
    If someone needs a correct propeller for their Fokker DR-1 then I can attest that there is no better propeller builder than David. I did six months worth of research on Fokker propellers before I contacted David. I have built several scratch built mahogany antique speed boats. I have also been a project manager on building several custom electric guitars where we used maple and mahogany combined (mahogany bodies and maple tops). We also used various burled woods for laminations. In short, I love to see beautiful woodwork and appreciate the artisans who can do that work. I am extremely happy with the 1:8 scale propeller that David did for me. If anyone has any questions or needs pictures then please contact me via a note in this forum. Thanks!!
    Sam Hornsby
    South Florida
    but who is David I wanna contact him . is he is a member in this forum , or u know him from out side , anyway - here or out side - I need his profile link or his e-mail so i can take some of his great experience , I expect that he will not refuse to help .

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    • #62
      Garuda

      Just found and read this thread. Please post more photos of your finished propellors!

      Currently I am working on a full size Heine for the Fokker D V II, see my thread somewhere else on this forum. I do agree with you re lamination thickness and the seemingly random nature of them. Must have been challenging since one set of templates would not necessarily work for a different set of thicknesses.

      I have measured 3 original Heines for the D VII and each differs in wood types and lamination thicknesses. The current project uses;15, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20, 5, back to front. My original is almost the reverse with the 5mm layer at the back and all laminations are mahogany. The first that I measured, in a museum, had similar layer thicknesses to mine but different species, a much more traditional ash, ash, mahogany, ash etc.

      Each of these used wood with splices both along the length and width. Many had been widened at the hub to get the required width and there are many more knots than I ever thought acceptable.

      I suspect that all this really means is that there was no strict formula. Maybe a preferred process/specification, but making do with what was on hand to achieve the end goal. BTW overall dimensions don't appear to change no matter what wood species etc was used.

      Really like your work.

      Regards
      John

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