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Need Info to Preserve a 1918 "Liberty" Propeller

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  • Need Info to Preserve a 1918 "Liberty" Propeller

    After sanding off Whitewash paint from a wooden propeller I found a "Liberty" decal. After doing a little Internet research this Prop seems to be a 1918 "Liberty" Walnut Wood Propeller manufactured by the Hartzell Propeller Co. My Questions: To help preserve & keep from drying out and separating any more should I coat it with Linseed oil? Should I keep Linseed oil off Liberty decal? On tips of blades there is some separating of wood layers. Should I have these re-glued & clamped (repaired) before Linseed oiling the Prop?

  • #2
    Bill,
    I would not try to "restore" the propeller in any way, such as re-glueing, but I do think linseed oil is the best method to bring out the wood character and help preserve the finish. I would just rub it on very gently, give it several days to dry then repeat the process a few more times. Once it seems as if no more oil can be absorbed, a light coat of good quality furniture wax works well on top of the linseed oil.
    I have two Liberty logo props, and I've been meaning to put the other one on the Photo page, but just haven't gotten around to it yet. Do you have a picture of yours?
    Dave
    Dave

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    • #3
      MORE QUESTIONS

      DAVE, THANKS FOR THE INFO ON LIBERTY PROPS. SOME MORE QUESTIONS IF YOU DONT MIND.
      YOUR PROP ON PICTURE PAGE HAS COLORED TIPS. DOES YOUR 110 INCH HAVE COLORED TIPS ALSO? I CANT BE 100% SURE, BUT I DONT THINK THERE WAS COLOR ON MY 104 INCH PROP.
      DO YOU THINK THE LENGHT DIFFERANCE BETWEEN MY 104" & YOUR 110" WOULD MEAN THEY WERE MADE FOR DIFFERENT TYPE PLANES? MIGHT JIMMY REEDY KNOW? MY HUB HOLE DIAMETER IS 3&1/8".
      INTERESTING ABOUT THIS PROP IT HAS NO NUMBER STAMPINGS IN THE HUB AND NO OTHER HOLES (BOLT HOLES?) IN THE HUB OTHER THAN THE MAIN ONE. IS THIS THE SAME FOR YOUR 110"?

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      • #4
        They're almost certainly made for different airplanes and engines, and the design as well as the dimensions are different. Mine have all got bolt holes. Usually when there are none it means that the prop was rejected before the final inspection process.
        Dave

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        • #5
          HI DAVE,
          IS YOUR 110" LIBERTY PROP COLORED ON THE LEADING EDGES LIKE YOUR SHORTER ONE?
          I THOUGHT MAYBE MY PROP HAVING NO BOLT HOLES MENT THIS PROP WAS SOLD AS A SPARE PART THAT WOUND UP NEVER NEEDING TO BE USED. IT SEEMES ODD TO ME THAT THE FACTORY WOULD LET A PROP GO OUT THE DOOR THAT FAILED FINAL INSPECTION, ESPECIALLY STILL HAVING THEIR DECALS ON IT.
          COULD YOU ALSO TELL ME WHAT HUB SURFACE YOUR NUMBERS ARE STAMPED ON? IS IT THE CURVED SIDE OF THE HUB, DECAL FACE FLAT FRONT OF THE HUB, OR BACK FLAT FACE OF THE HUB?
          THANKS,

          Comment


          • #6
            Just to be clear this is the shorter one. It's 8 feet long. Unfortunately the other one is hanging up in a restaurant that a friend owns but they are both similar. Both have brass sheathing and Liberty decals and no fabric or paint. I don't recall stampings on the longer one, but I think there is very little identifying data on that one. It is a Liberty engine sized hub, however.
            Dave

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            • #7
              Preservation of propeller

              Hi.

              I have spent many years repairing and conserving antique objects.(note I didnt say restoring antiques).
              When I hear the word sandpaper used in connection with a repair, it scares me..
              Sandpaper should be sparingly used it conservation - generally only where an infill peice has had to be let in to effect a repair.
              If you decide a finish must be removed -NEVER DO THIS WITH SANPAPER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
              Test the finish with various solvents to see if any disolve the finish. (meths, DDA, turps, gum turps, thinners, and if nothing else works paint stripper.
              When an item has lost its original finish it has lost its soul. When you sand an old item its like ripping its heart out.
              Lets face it when something has lost its heart, and its soul, it is worth very little.
              Something that is old - SHOULD LOOK OLD.


              Regards oinkitt

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Preservation of propeller

                Originally posted by oinkitt
                Hi.

                I have spent many years repairing and conserving antique objects.(note I didnt say restoring antiques).
                When I hear the word sandpaper used in connection with a repair, it scares me..
                Sandpaper should be sparingly used it conservation - generally only where an infill peice has had to be let in to effect a repair.
                If you decide a finish must be removed -NEVER DO THIS WITH SANPAPER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
                Test the finish with various solvents to see if any disolve the finish. (meths, DDA, turps, gum turps, thinners, and if nothing else works paint stripper.
                When an item has lost its original finish it has lost its soul. When you sand an old item its like ripping its heart out.
                Lets face it when something has lost its heart, and its soul, it is worth very little.
                Something that is old - SHOULD LOOK OLD.


                Regards oinkitt
                Thanks for that input, oinkitt, and I agree with you. With respect to propellers, I consider aging of the finish to be part of the soul and feel that the original varnish should also be preserved, along with the underlying decals if present. Unlike furniture, propellers were used outdoors, and some weathered appearance to the finish is perfectly appropriate for the application.
                Dave

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