Just bought an old wooden prop - possibly from a Vickers Vimy

[stjon1088]

I'm an aviation enthusiast and just picked up an ancient wooden prop. Hub Stenciling details are as follows:

CURTISS No 16971 12 CYL RAF 4A RE8

Prop Specs:

4 Blade (3 cut off = 1 full blade remaining attached to an intact hub)
8 Bolt hub
7 1/8" hub thickness
Blade length 54 1/2"
Spindle diameter 2 1/4'

Unfortunately the interior of the hub has been partially drilled out to accommodate an insert possibly a clock, but the 8 bolt holes are still intact.

To me this 4 blade prop maybe from a 12 cylinder RAF WW1 aircraft, possibly a Vickers Vimy bomber (I dont know whether Curtiss supplied spare parts to the RAF back then for its bombers). As a child growing up, I used to visit my elderly Great Aunts in London whose brother was shot down during WW1 while piloting a Vimy on a raid. His Squadron mates rescued some wreckage and presented some of it to his relatives. My Great Aunts (his sisters) received one of the propellers and had it mounted. It remained with them until they died, we used to climb all over it when we visited. Maybe this is not the case with this prop as described, but I'd surely like to know what kind of airplane it came from. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Dave]

It's for an RAF RE8, like the one pictured here:



I suspect that you are correct in your assumption that Curtiss manufactured propellers for some British aircraft, although I'm not aware of any specifics. It certainly was not uncommon to have multiple manufacturers making identical props, though.

[stjon1088]

Hi Dave
Thanks for the info..on further inspection the hub also has T6296M stamped on it...I missed that last night. Thanks again.

[Bob Gardner]

The letters RAF here indicate the Royal Aircraft Factory. When the Royal Air Force was formed from the RFC and the RNAS on 1 April 1918 it adopted the letters RAF and the Royal Aircraft Factory then became the RAE, the Royal Aircraft Establishment.

Curtis made props for several British engines, as well as for their own engines that were supplied to the UK.

With regards,

Bob

[stjon1088]

RE8 prop

Bob/Dave.
Thanks for the info now I have a near complete knowledge of what I have. I have removed most of what was a bad attempt to re-varnish my prop and have replaced some missing dowels and re-glued some de-lamination. What do you advise I refinish it with? BTW I have been very careful to preserve all lettering, knicks and markings, obviously. I know your posted topics state that I should have not removed anything but the previous re-finish was of such bad quality, to obvious amateur standards and coupled with the need to prevent further degradation in this dry Californian climate, I had to remedy it. Any further advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
St. Jon

[Dave]

Well, once a prop has been refinished or altered, it really doesn't matter a lot what you do with it. Personally, I would just rub it with linseed oil, let it dry for a few weeks then repeat the process a few times. The oil helps preserve it and can be repeated as often as you like.

[Bob Gardner]

Alternatively take it to a cabinet maker and ask him to repolish it. This will cost around 700 USD but will be professional.

Alternatively, having fed the wood with linseed oil, polish it with pure beeswax every few months for a year or so.

Bob

[stjon1088]

RE8 prop

Thanks again Guys...I have just given it its first "wood restoration beeswax/oil"
treatment and it looks fantastic....all markings, either original or accidental have come alive....next to mount it...I'll post some pictures when its done. Thanks again for your advice.
St. Jon

[MWP_Lamar]

In case it may be helpful, I use the mounting method shown of Dave's web page http://www.woodenpropeller.com/preservation.html with excellent results.

Lamar

[Dave]

Thanks again Guys...I have just given it its first "wood restoration beeswax/oil"
treatment and it looks fantastic....all markings, either original or accidental have come alive....next to mount it...I'll post some pictures when its done. Thanks again for your advice.
St. Jon

Let us know if you ever find out what Curtiss had to do with it...